Once you are ready to begin, you must set forth the time and place and do it consistently. Never ever do this in the field! There should be no association to the field work. In the beginning never use bumpers or dokkens. That is why they have retriever bucks! We want no association to the fun stuff. You want an area free from distractions and any interference from other people or other dogs. I usually put on classical music to keep us both somewhat relaxed through a stressful time.

    There are some trainers that discontinue all retrieving in hopes the dog does not make too many associations. We can over analyze this and do harm by limiting their activities. I treat each dog as they should be, different dogs may include a different approach. Force fetch is not fun for a trainer and it is certainly not fun for the dog. One must be able to "read" the dog in order to know what is about to happen via the reaction of"stimulus and response". I end each session with a little obedience and a fun bumper, then a small meal.

    My program has changed a bit over the years. I begin now before the teeth are permanent with a gentle and fun approach. I start with a glove or my hand with a "easy… take it" then "hold" and "leave it" with a treat. I do this for a few weeks so that the dog, hopefully gets the concept before the real stuff begins. It is certainly easier for the dog to understand the commands, "take it", "hold", "leave it". You can also use "fetch", "hold", "drop". Our dogs are capable of large vocabularies later, for now keep everything very simple! Do not overwhelm/sensory overload your dog with a lot of nonsense talk.

1.     When you start the procedure make sure the concepts you are teaching the dog are clear so that you can assist them to accomplish the task. Each step should be clear before you move to the next step. Limit the session to 5 minutes. But honestly, this isn't always possible. You must make sure that at the end of these sessions you are clearly and undisputedly the "Boss". This may take more than 5 minutes with some dogs. Trust me...it can take a long time with some dogs. It always takes as long as it takes to make something clear. With my dogs...I always win when it is a battle for Leadership. If you give up then why shouldn't they? I know some books state the force fetch can be done without the toe hitch or ear pinch. It can also be done in two weeks. I say, Are these people crazy? I never stop until at least 30 days and I have had dogs enter 50 days and more. When you have a obstinate dog they don't give up easy. In my many years of training I have run into more dogs that were difficult and obstinate than those that were easy. I have had 20 of my personal dogs that I forced to retrieve. I have force fetched hundreds of client dogs and assisted hundreds of clients to do their own. It is not an easy task if you cannot read a dog and your timing is off. Timing and reading the dog during force fetch is paramount. If you get through force fetch without issues then you have done something wrong. There must be resistance or you have not made an impression on your dog. There should be a battle of the wills. You should hope there is a battle so you know you have a dog that will persevere. You must have voice control and let your dog know when they are doing the right thing. Be generous with encouragement and yet your disappointment voice changes as well. You cannot be Monotone! There must be intonation in your voice. Your dog must understand exactly what you expect in each and every session. You have the easy part since you know what you want. You must be a good teacher to instruct this other species to do what you want. Too many novices think it all is at once. You chain the pieces together one by one. Piece by piece and session after session. If you want to understand this more intellectually, study Theories of Learning. This is not something that someone came up with and said, "Do this and therefore you do". There are years of research involved in Operant and Classical Conditioning. Classical Conditioning defined: Learning that takes place when a neutral stimulus (the CS) is paired with a stimulus (UCS) that already produces a response (UCR). The organism then responds to the neutral stimulus in the same way (CR) as to the (UCS). Operant Conditioning: The learning process also known as instrumental conditioning by which organism learns to associate its own behavior with a consequence. I use Shaping, An operant conditioning technique wherein responses that are increasingly similar to the desired behavior are reinforced, step by step, until the desired behavior occurs. I use Positive Reinforcement therapy as well, Behavior therapy technique which identifies the desired behavior, then uses rewards to motivate that behavior. I also use Negative reinforcement, it is used as well, In operant conditioning, any stimulus that increases the probability of a response through its removal when the desired response is made. I use Extinction, In classical conditioning, the process by which a conditioned stimulus is extinguished through repeated presentation of the conditioned stimulus without the unconditioned stimulus. I used Fixed Interval scheduling and Fixed Ratio Scheduling. I also use the Fatigue Method which is also termed Flooding.

This is basically fatigue, threshold and incompatible stimulus. Here are the Eight Types of Learning (in order):

1. Signal Learning
2. Stimulus-response learning
3. Chaining-Motor chains
4. Chaining-Verbal Associations
5. Discrimination Learning
6. Concept Learning
7. Rule Learning
8. Problem Solving. Most people don't find this interesting… I obviously do.

    Different breeds of retrievers as well as other dogs differ in the way they accept the force. Not all dogs are created equal. For example, some dogs really have a high threshold to pain. Others may not and regard you as something they want to retaliate against with a vicious bite. For me, the dog that resists pain and is stoic is the most challenging to penetrate their wall of resistance. The dogs that wants to bite you beware…your timing and hand position is critical to your safety. Some of these dogs are too fearful under stress and do not make good hunting dogs.

    It is important if you wish to force your own dog that you find a professional to watch go through the procedure at all levels. If you have any doubts then have someone help you. You do not want to make too many mistakes. Some dogs will show weakness and these dogs can be dangerous to you and others. They can be mentally weak and unable to withstand the pressures of hunting and retrieving. You must have a dog that his desire to retrieve is much great than any resentment to the discomforts of the force.

    Be prepared for your dog to resist or balk at any time during the force training. At least when he does this, you will know his threshold to refusal; then you can anticipate the forth coming problems and work on it specifically.

    It is important that you understand that there will be good days and bad days. But it takes more than two weeks! Be certain that the dog understands clearly your commands, what he is expected of him and what he is to do. Make sure that all is fully understood and assimilated before moving on. Stay cognizant of his mental attitude and any behavioral changes you observe. This is a stressful time for your dog…the pressure is on to see what kind of stamina your dog has. Pour on the birds when the completion has taken place…have fun!

 

    There is nothing more exciting when you have completed this process with your dog. You both survived the battle of the wills. You become the Commander and he is your trusted foot soldier! Your dog will be proud to parade all that he has learned. The obedience is there and he will retrieve and deliver to hand. He now understands his position and his job. You are a team now. Let the fun of hunting begin! However we have to get the job complete before we can have fun! So here is what you will need.

Tools needed for the force procedures:

1. 6-8 foot leash
2. Pinch collar
3. Wide center ring collar
4. Retriever buck
5. Table
6. Treats
7. Private location (no distractions or interruptions) music optional.
   

    I use a force table and secure the dog. You do not want to be chasing your dog around and encouraging them to break a sit stay. Dogs will try to move away or lay down. If you do not have a table use a fence to secure them. Make sure if you are in the city limits that no one can observe what you are doing! For those that do not understand training they will "think" it is abuse.

    So you have your dog secured and you can use three different methods. There is the lip pinch, ear and toe hitch. I use the first two but never use the toe hitch. The reason for not using the toe is, one, the foot is what carries the dog. We do not want to cause permanent damage to a foot or even produce a sore foot! Plus you cannot reach down and reinforce the dog easily when a correction is necessary later. The ear is the safest for you and the dog, provided you have your pinch in the right place. You do not want to cause a hematoma on the ear flap. You can also pinch the lip over a tooth to get the dog to open their mouth. We are causing pain to open the mouth and place the buck into their mouth. The pinch takes place and you say "take it". The minute you place the buck in their mouth the pain ends. You then say "hold" and secure the dogs mouth over the buck. Say, "good hold", then give the command "leave it". Then give a treat. You will not always give a treat. But when you give the treat…say "take it". We want them to learn the commands and make those associations. In the beginning the duration will be short, later you will extend the time they hold the buck as they begin to understand the concept and stop fighting you or the buck. Be encouraging in the beginning. Later you should just be able to say "take it" and the dog will reach quickly to avoid the pain. I say "quickly" if the dog continues to slowly and painfully take it…you are not even close to completion!

    Once the dog will hold and hold it tightly. You may see the dog not want to release since he is anticipating the pain with "take it". Use this time to tap on each side of the buck and repeat "hold" and "good hold" so that it does not fall out of their mouth. Please keep it simple. The duration of the "hold" can increase as the dog gets better at holding. In about a week of the true force fetch you can attempt to get the dog to walk and hold. Then add the sit and hold, heel and hold. It is amazingly different with dogs during this time. Some cannot heel and hold then sit! Just persevere…they will "get it". There will come a time during this procedure that the dog may start refusing…now you are entering the danger zone. This is the battle of the wills. The dog may cower…it is up to you to lift their spirits as well as enforce the commands. And some dogs can become aggressive. This is a fine line, especially if you have a soft dog that is not really a Rock N Roll Retriever. This is where experience and knowledge in psychology is a plus! What motivates, what compels the dog to work now? If you don't know …you better find out fast.

    The key to the force-fetch is discipline and control. Without force fetch you cannot move on to the intermediate and advanced work. Well I suppose anyone can but it will be sloppy.

 Again this is the process:

1. The dog is to my left because I am right handed. I pinch with the left hand and place the buck in with my right hand. I do not hold onto the dog…he is secured on my table or on the fence. If he is on the fence his hips are secured as well. No movement when you begin.
2. Place your nail on the crest of the lowest part of the ear and pinch in order for the dog to open his mouth. Hopefully he opens his mouth from some pain you are inflicting. Some dogs show no sense to pain! Simultaneously place the buck in his mouth when it opens. Immediately the pinch stops. Good hold! Repeat the command and then release. You will repeat this over and over regardless if the dogs reaches prior to the pinch. You pinch! We want the dog to realize that the pain stops and it feels good when the buck is in the mouth. Association of relief with holding!
3. As the dog progresses you will start to move the buck farther away so the dog now has to reach for it on the ear pinch and hold it securely.
4. As the dog really becomes reliable the dog can move on a pulley on the table to reach and move to retrieve the buck. Ear pinch is still used.
5. When you reach your last week for the force…you can move off the table and have the dog on leash….moving retrieves, ground retrieves and jump for retrieves. During the ground retrieves he may resist more…if so go back and start over until he gets it and the performance is to your satisfaction.
6. Your dog at the end of the month long sessions should be moving to the object quickly whether in your hand, on the ground at a greater distances. You can add the dokkens, bumpers, birds, hammer, bricks, poles, towels, pencils. Whatever you command to "take" the dog should jump enthusiastically at the command.
7. The completion, the graduation. This dog should pick up a pile of bumpers on command and doing it with focus and great determination. He is now working not because he felt like it …but because the "boss" is directing him to do so. Your dog is truly learning to learn. The door is open to his or her full potential now. Let the learning begin. Dogs like boundaries and a good firm, fair and consistent leader. You must be consistent at all times during this process. You must be on a schedule that does not get derailed. It is not fair to the dog if you work for two days and then don't for three and expect him to understand what you want. Be committed and your work will show!

 

    I have always been an advocate of my own saying, "a dog is usually as smart and responsive as his owner". But some of the dogs I have met lately, I may not be entirely correct. Our dogs reflect our effort, commitment and knowledge. No two dogs are alike and can be taught always the same way. It is our duty to find ways to meet the challenges of what motivates and moves a dog to work for us, happily and eagerly. Not all dogs are bred well and some have had owners that are too harsh and take it personally when their dogs do not work well. Then it is the owner who has the problem and not the dog. If you are in a bad mood get rid of that mood before you begin to work the dog. If you do not work with this dog daily do not expect it to perform well. Practice is what makes our dogs perform well. I spend so much time with client dogs that my dog's performance starts falling short. Whose fault is it? Mine! I hope this outline assist you in your endeavors.

 

    We as humans have been in many positions in our lives where we had to do things we did not want to do. We did it, but we did it with some reluctance. The same applies to our dogs. I can make them do anything…but can I get them to do it with the style desire and passion for the retrieve that makes us proud to know this dog. What is so great about dogs is their ability to adapt to just about any given situation we place before them and have them still respect and love us unconditionally afterwards. They always amaze me. I truly strive to not be more like people but to be as happy and resilient as our dogs.

    Once you begin this program there should be no interruptions. This is a daily commitment on your part if you are doing the forcing yourself. The dog deserves the daily routine which will make this occur more quickly. If your dog is with a trainer…you cannot be coming out interrupting the process. No more than you should take your dog hunting before it is trained and proofed. In many cases it is best to have a professional force fetch your dog. If you cannot "read" your dog or react quickly you may find yourself with a dog bite! Be careful and enjoy becoming a part of the team with your dog. Hunting with a dog is one of the greatest experiences in life. They can truly be your very best friend! Trained, ready to go. You best be practicing your shooting!

Debra Lee
Copyright October 2000

RAVE Retrievers
5467 FM 482
New Braunfels, Texas 78132
830.643.1222 Ranch & Kennels
913.620.7441 Mobile
www.raveretrievers.com